Motoring across the calm waters of the South China Sea, Taiwanese captain Lu Wen-shiung recalls the old days, when Chinese and Taiwanese fishers used to meet behind rocky headlands, anchoring their boats out of the authorities' sight, to share a meal. There was less surveillance then, and the two sides were more friendly, fishing the same waters, occasionally selling to each other on the sly. "We were like brothers, we had a good relationship, they would even cook for us," he says. "But…now the control has become stricter, the [Chinese] coast guard will call me if the boats are too close." Now a tour boat captain, Lu says if he even gets close to the prohibited waters line－a de facto sea border with China－he'll get a swift warning over the radio from the coast guard. Lu and his boat are travelling through the busy waters surrounding Kinmen County, an archipelago controlled by Taiwan but sitting just kilometers away from China. Chinese officials have publicly rejected the existence of the prohibited waters line. Such a statement is consistent with Beijing's claim over Taiwan, but the line had been tacitly respected since its demarcation in the 1990s. The Chinese Communist party [CCP] government claims Taiwan (including Kinmen) as a Chinese province, and has become increasingly hostile in its pursuit of annexation, as Taiwan's government and people only grow more opposed. Despite the political tensions that exist, Kinmen-Xiamen is one area where official cooperation has actually managed to continue, with joint efforts to crack down on illegal fishing and smuggling, and on search and rescue missions. But a fatal capsize of a "three-noes" boat－no name, no registration, no flag－last month has threatened to derail it and raised serious questions about the strength of the border.